Troubleshooting
How do I find the right nozzle temperature for a filament (temp tower)?
First in this ranking: Polymaker Polylite PLA.
- Nozzle190–230 °C(374–446 °F)
- Bed25–60 °C(77–140 °F)
- Speed40–60 mm/s
- Dry55 °C(131 °F)for 6 h
- Density1.17 g/cm³
Ranked filaments
| Rank | Filament | Material | Nozzle | Bed | Price / kg | Datasheet | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Polymaker · Polylite PLAPolyLite PLA lists a nozzle of 190–230 °C (374–446 °F) and a bed of 25–60 °C (77–140 °F) on the US product page checked for this catalog, with drying at 55 °C (131 °F) for 6 h. A temperature tower for this spool stays inside 190–230 °C (374–446 °F). | PLA | 190–230 °C (374–446 °F) | 25–60 °C (77–140 °F) | — | Datasheet | |
| 2 | Polymaker · Polylite PETGPolyLite PETG lists a nozzle of 220–250 °C (428–482 °F) and a bed of 70–90 °C (158–194 °F) in the Open Filament Database, and the PolyLite PETG technical data sheet is the datasheet link. That is a different window from the PLA row. | PETG | 220–250 °C (428–482 °F) | 70–90 °C (158–194 °F) | — | Datasheet | |
| 3 | eSUN 3D · ABS+eSUN ABS+ lists a nozzle of 230–260 °C (446–500 °F) and a bed of 90–110 °C (194–230 °F) in the Open Filament Database. Drying and enclosure required are blank on the row. | ABS | 230–260 °C (446–500 °F) | 90–110 °C (194–230 °F) | — | — |
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Read the nozzle window on the row you actually loaded, then use a temperature tower to pick a step inside that window. Stringing and PLA printing are the two failures these threads keep mixing into the tower.
What the five threads actually changed
On r/3Dprinting spzme6 the part is a 0.100 inch cylinder. The poster had already tried a lower nozzle temperature. The leading comment is "Minimum time per layer." A score-32 comment says print ten at once so there is time to cool. A score-27 comment says the previous layer is still hot, asks for better cooling and a slower speed, and asks about a silicone sock. A temperature tower shows up only in a later comment, paired with esteps.
On r/FixMyPrint vmmrlq the title already states 200 at the nozzle and 60 on the bed. The leading comment does not pick a new temperature. It lists a clog, moisture, and not enough extrusion, and it says to re-tune after a change. Another comment asks if popping during extrusion is moisture. Drying is that question.
On r/3Dprinting s3e3gn higher nozzle temperature was already in the list, next to dish soap, 97% IPA, and a little glue, on Prusa pearl blue that still peeled. The comments send that print to Live-Z, a 7x7 mesh, and first-layer squish.
On r/3Dprinting saw4s2 the whole temperature tower is stringing. The comments name retraction, snug Bowden fittings, a different nozzle, and low-quality filament. Two comments say the filament is wet, including a spool that is new to the person printing it. Stringing is the guide for that tower.
On r/FixMyPrint w6u60d the poster is at 185 degrees, 0.12 mm layers, and 8 mm retraction at 50 mm/s on an Ender 3 V2. The leading comment says turn off power-loss protection because the pause leaves a blob. Other comments name model resolution and the Z-seam wipe. That thread is not a reason to leave 185 degrees.
How to use the three rows
PolyLite PLA is 190–230 °C (374–446 °F) at the nozzle and 25–60 °C (77–140 °F) on the bed. PolyLite PETG is 220–250 °C (428–482 °F) and 70–90 °C (158–194 °F). eSUN ABS+ is 230–260 °C (446–500 °F) and 90–110 °C (194–230 °F). A tower that steps outside the row is testing a different product than the one on the spool. PLA, PETG, and ABS are the material hubs. PETG printing and ABS printing are the material guides.
Pros and cons
Pros
- The three rows are three different nozzle windows, so a single tower recipe is not copied onto PLA, PETG, and ABS.
- The stringing tower and the twisting cylinder are kept as separate failures.
Cons
- A comment on r/3Dprinting spzme6 mentions a temperature tower only after esteps. These threads never show a finished tower with a chosen step.
- The titles that say 200 and 60, or 185 degrees, do not name Celsius. Those figures stay the posters' words.
Printer considerations
- On r/3Dprinting spzme6 the poster had already lowered nozzle temperature on a 0.100 inch cylinder and it still twisted. The top comment is the four words Minimum time per layer. The next comments say print several at once so each layer can cool, slow down, and check for a silicone sock on the heater block.
- On r/FixMyPrint w6u60d the poster was at 185 degrees on an Ender 3 V2, 0.12 mm layers, 8 mm retraction at 50 mm/s, and the comments name power-loss recovery pauses and the Z seam, not a new setpoint.
- Match the tower's top and bottom to the row you loaded. PolyLite PLA stops at 230 °C (446 °F). PolyLite PETG starts at 220 °C (428 °F). eSUN ABS+ starts at 230 °C (446 °F).
What the community says
r/3Dprinting spzme6 is a tiny cylinder that still twisted after the poster lowered nozzle temperature. The leading comment is Minimum time per layer, and a score-27 comment says the layer underneath is still hot, asks for more cooling and a slower print, and asks whether a silicone sock is on the heater block. r/FixMyPrint vmmrlq is a bad print at 200 nozzle and 60 bed. The leading comment lists a clog, moisture, and not enough extrusion, and says to re-tune if something changed. A later comment asks whether popping sounds are moisture. r/3Dprinting s3e3gn already tried dish soap, 97% IPA, a little glue, and higher nozzle temperatures on Prusa pearl blue. The comments point at Live-Z being too high, a 7x7 bed mesh, and the first-layer squish. r/3Dprinting saw4s2 asks why a whole temperature tower is stringing. The comments say retraction, Bowden fittings, the nozzle, and low-quality filament, and two comments say the filament is wet, including filament that is new to the printer. r/FixMyPrint w6u60d is blobs at 185 degrees on an Ender 3 V2. The leading comment says turn off power-loss protection.
- Community source, r/3Dprinting spzme6
- Community source, r/FixMyPrint vmmrlq
- Community source, r/3Dprinting s3e3gn
- Community source, r/3Dprinting saw4s2
- Community source, r/FixMyPrint w6u60d
Sources & notes
Accessed 17 October 2026.
- PolyLite PLA technical data sheet datasheet
- PolyLite PETG technical data sheet datasheet
- Polymaker US PolyLite PLA product page manufacturer
- Open Filament Database, eSUN 3D ABS+ other
- Community source, r/3Dprinting spzme6 reddit
- Community source, r/FixMyPrint vmmrlq reddit
- Community source, r/3Dprinting s3e3gn reddit
- Community source, r/3Dprinting saw4s2 reddit
- Community source, r/FixMyPrint w6u60d reddit
Related questions
- How do I get good PLA prints?PLA
- How do I get good PETG prints?PETG
- How do I print ABS successfully?ABS
- Do I need to dry filament, and how?Drying
- How do I fix stringing?Troubleshooting
Questions
Should I change nozzle temperature before the first layer sticks?
No. On r/3Dprinting s3e3gn the poster had already raised nozzle temperature, and the comments still send the printer back to Live-Z and the first layer. The PLA print guide is that sequence.
What does a temperature tower that strings at every step mean?
On r/3Dprinting saw4s2 the comments split the cause across retraction, the Bowden path, the nozzle, filament quality, and water. Wet filament is also the popping question on r/FixMyPrint vmmrlq. Use the stringing guide and the drying guide before picking a new setpoint.