Troubleshooting

How do I find the right nozzle temperature for a filament (temp tower)?

First in this ranking: Polymaker Polylite PLA.

Ranked filaments

RankFilamentMaterialNozzleBedPrice / kgDatasheetBuy
1Polymaker · Polylite PLAPolyLite PLA lists a nozzle of 190–230 °C (374–446 °F) and a bed of 25–60 °C (77–140 °F) on the US product page checked for this catalog, with drying at 55 °C (131 °F) for 6 h. A temperature tower for this spool stays inside 190–230 °C (374–446 °F).PLA
190–230 °C (374–446 °F)
25–60 °C (77–140 °F)
—Datasheet
2Polymaker · Polylite PETGPolyLite PETG lists a nozzle of 220–250 °C (428–482 °F) and a bed of 70–90 °C (158–194 °F) in the Open Filament Database, and the PolyLite PETG technical data sheet is the datasheet link. That is a different window from the PLA row.PETG
220–250 °C (428–482 °F)
70–90 °C (158–194 °F)
—Datasheet
3eSUN 3D · ABS+eSUN ABS+ lists a nozzle of 230–260 °C (446–500 °F) and a bed of 90–110 °C (194–230 °F) in the Open Filament Database. Drying and enclosure required are blank on the row.ABS
230–260 °C (446–500 °F)
90–110 °C (194–230 °F)
——

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Read the nozzle window on the row you actually loaded, then use a temperature tower to pick a step inside that window. Stringing and PLA printing are the two failures these threads keep mixing into the tower.

What the five threads actually changed

On r/3Dprinting spzme6 the part is a 0.100 inch cylinder. The poster had already tried a lower nozzle temperature. The leading comment is "Minimum time per layer." A score-32 comment says print ten at once so there is time to cool. A score-27 comment says the previous layer is still hot, asks for better cooling and a slower speed, and asks about a silicone sock. A temperature tower shows up only in a later comment, paired with esteps.

On r/FixMyPrint vmmrlq the title already states 200 at the nozzle and 60 on the bed. The leading comment does not pick a new temperature. It lists a clog, moisture, and not enough extrusion, and it says to re-tune after a change. Another comment asks if popping during extrusion is moisture. Drying is that question.

On r/3Dprinting s3e3gn higher nozzle temperature was already in the list, next to dish soap, 97% IPA, and a little glue, on Prusa pearl blue that still peeled. The comments send that print to Live-Z, a 7x7 mesh, and first-layer squish.

On r/3Dprinting saw4s2 the whole temperature tower is stringing. The comments name retraction, snug Bowden fittings, a different nozzle, and low-quality filament. Two comments say the filament is wet, including a spool that is new to the person printing it. Stringing is the guide for that tower.

On r/FixMyPrint w6u60d the poster is at 185 degrees, 0.12 mm layers, and 8 mm retraction at 50 mm/s on an Ender 3 V2. The leading comment says turn off power-loss protection because the pause leaves a blob. Other comments name model resolution and the Z-seam wipe. That thread is not a reason to leave 185 degrees.

How to use the three rows

PolyLite PLA is 190–230 °C (374–446 °F) at the nozzle and 25–60 °C (77–140 °F) on the bed. PolyLite PETG is 220–250 °C (428–482 °F) and 70–90 °C (158–194 °F). eSUN ABS+ is 230–260 °C (446–500 °F) and 90–110 °C (194–230 °F). A tower that steps outside the row is testing a different product than the one on the spool. PLA, PETG, and ABS are the material hubs. PETG printing and ABS printing are the material guides.

Pros and cons

Pros

  • The three rows are three different nozzle windows, so a single tower recipe is not copied onto PLA, PETG, and ABS.
  • The stringing tower and the twisting cylinder are kept as separate failures.

Cons

  • A comment on r/3Dprinting spzme6 mentions a temperature tower only after esteps. These threads never show a finished tower with a chosen step.
  • The titles that say 200 and 60, or 185 degrees, do not name Celsius. Those figures stay the posters' words.

Printer considerations

Printer limits

What the community says

r/3Dprinting spzme6 is a tiny cylinder that still twisted after the poster lowered nozzle temperature. The leading comment is Minimum time per layer, and a score-27 comment says the layer underneath is still hot, asks for more cooling and a slower print, and asks whether a silicone sock is on the heater block. r/FixMyPrint vmmrlq is a bad print at 200 nozzle and 60 bed. The leading comment lists a clog, moisture, and not enough extrusion, and says to re-tune if something changed. A later comment asks whether popping sounds are moisture. r/3Dprinting s3e3gn already tried dish soap, 97% IPA, a little glue, and higher nozzle temperatures on Prusa pearl blue. The comments point at Live-Z being too high, a 7x7 bed mesh, and the first-layer squish. r/3Dprinting saw4s2 asks why a whole temperature tower is stringing. The comments say retraction, Bowden fittings, the nozzle, and low-quality filament, and two comments say the filament is wet, including filament that is new to the printer. r/FixMyPrint w6u60d is blobs at 185 degrees on an Ender 3 V2. The leading comment says turn off power-loss protection.

Sources & notes

Accessed 17 October 2026.

Answer JSON · Markdown

Related questions

Questions

Should I change nozzle temperature before the first layer sticks?

No. On r/3Dprinting s3e3gn the poster had already raised nozzle temperature, and the comments still send the printer back to Live-Z and the first layer. The PLA print guide is that sequence.

What does a temperature tower that strings at every step mean?

On r/3Dprinting saw4s2 the comments split the cause across retraction, the Bowden path, the nozzle, filament quality, and water. Wet filament is also the popping question on r/FixMyPrint vmmrlq. Use the stringing guide and the drying guide before picking a new setpoint.